By Marnely Murray
Did you know that Edgartown’s staple Italian American restaurant is under the helm of a Peruvian chef? Jimmy Alvarado has been the chef at the restaurant for the last two years and recently we had a chance to sit down and talk to him about his upbringing, his food, and what his favorite foods were!
This Week on MV: How does a Peruvian chef end up cooking Italian American food on Martha’s Vineyard?
Jimmy Alvarado: Ha! Well, Originally I am from Lima, Peru, a city packed to the brim with a variety of culinary adventures and once I moved to the US, my first restaurant I worked was Modern American Eatery in Jersey City, a concept by Chef Gregory Torrech. Mostly comfort food with a few spins, it got me into looking at food as art more and more. I was professionally a Sound Engineer and was looking to build a recording studio, but it was becoming a struggle to accomplish this. To save money for all the sound equipment I’d need, I started cooking on the side and somehow fell head over heels with the craft.
TW: Did you grow up with your family’s cooking?
JA: I grew up eating my grandmother’s food, something I fondly remember. Her spicy Peruvian dishes were some of the best, her pesto was incredible, and the fact that I grew up eating some of the freshest and best ceviche in the world – I think that makes me a more creative chef being able to pull from those memories of ceviche, specially when being surrounded by all the fresh seafood on island.
TW: What inspires you on a daily basis?
JA: Inspiration comes normally at night, after a long day of service and hours in the kitchen. At work, my mind is going a hundred miles per hour trying to get everything done, but once I am home and in bed, my brain has the time to relax and dream up of dishes. I say dream up because there have been times I have actually dreamt of dishes and created them the next day in real life! I also get inspiration from cooking for loved ones, as it’s my way of showing affection and love.
TW: What are some challenges you see as a chef in such a seasonal community such as Martha’s Vineyard?
JA: Everyone is going through the same thing this year – the understaffing is hitting us hard, plus we had some key members not able to come back this year. But as usual, we get by with a little help from our friends!
TW: What’s your favorite dish on the menu right now?
JA: It has to be the Chicken Parmesan – because I grew up eating a version of it and I believe we do it so well at the restaurant. We currently just developed a gluten free version of this dish and you can’t even tell the difference!
TW: What local businesses are you currently sourcing from for your menu?
JA: Supporting local businesses, farmers, and artisans is close to my heart. A few I am currently sourcing from and working with are: The Good Farm, The Grey Barn, Morning Glory Farm, MVM Mushrooms, and Honey Suckle Oysters. Plus, I work directly with fishermen to see what’s new and exciting that I can be cooking.
TW: Ok, let’s talk about last meals. What would your last meal be and why?
JA: That’s an easy one – my Grandmother’s Chicken and Rice, with traditional Peruvian potatoes called “papa a la huancaina”, which is a potato appetizer dish of boiled yellow potatoes in a spicy creamy sauce called “huancaina”, originally from the city I was born in, Lima, Peru. And now I’m hungry!
