by Marisa Iglesias
Kelley D. Jensen has been to six continents and has cooked in the most unlikely of them all, and you’d never know it. The head chef of Siren is one of the most open, humble head chefs you’ll ever meet in the food industry. He also has one of the most boast-worthy resumes on the Vineyard, which includes the completion of an advanced course in L.A. for sake pairing. We chatted while devouring Siren’s best selling sushi roll, the Beauty & Beast (spicy tuna, avo, tempura chips, salmon, topped off with yellowtail and drizzled in eel sauce and Siren’s one of a kind jalapeno sauce), about the best customer he’s ever had, his love for islands, and his adventures working all over the world.
This Week: What brought about your career as a chef? Was it a lifelong dream or something that serendipitously happened?
Jensen: It started when I was a kid. Then when I turned 22, I joined the army. I always had a part-time job where I was cooking. When I got out, it was the only thing I knew how to do after nine years in the army and cooking in places like Korea and New Mexico.
TW: Where are you from and how did you end up cooking sushi on the Vineyard?
Jensen: I was born in Seattle then moved to Okinawa until I was 6, then moved back to Seattle. I began cooking sushi in Korea in 1992 while I was in the army. I became a student to learning about it- I would study the different ways of making it every day and then read Japanese fairytales before bed each night. There is a lot of knowledge with sushi, no one knows everything. I have been cooking sushi exclusively for eight years. A few seasons ago, a friend of mine was doing sushi out here and needed help.
TW: Who was your worst customer?
Jensen: I’m not sure about worst customer… but I can tell you about my favorite customer! It was when I was working at a sushi bar in Dutch Harbor, Alaska. The captain of the crabbing boat, The Wizard, brought me a live king crab as a tip. It weighed 16 pounds! I cooked it up and ate it the next day with friends.
TW: What has being a chef taught you about being a customer?
Jensen: I’m more humble because I know what it takes. I will never treat the staff of a restaurant unkindly. If the food is bad, I don’t complain. I just pay and know not to order it again!
TW: What is your favorite thing to A) cook and B) eat?
Jensen: My favorite thing to cook is my own Americanized fusion sushi. I’ll really eat everything. Except anything fried. But my favorite is Italian. I’ve been to Italy and you can really taste the regional flavors. Tomato sauce and fresh mozzarella can’t be beaten. And of course it’s better in Italy.
TW: What is your dream job?
Jensen: My dream is to open my own sushi bar where I can serve sushi rolls that I have invented like my roll with strawberry, crab and toasted coconut on top. Or I’d love to buy a sail boat, charter it out and be the captain and cook of it. It’d be out of Honolulu… or New Zealand. I’d love to do that for retirement. I’ve been on islands ever since 2002- in Antarctica on Ross Island, in Alaska on Dutch Harbor, and now here in Oak Bluffs. I like the closeness of these small communities versus larger cities like LA or Vegas.
TW: You worked in Antarctica? What was that like?
Jensen: I worked there for two and a half seasons. I was in charge of all the cold food at the research station. I was there for ten months total, I got there the end of their winter in August and stayed through the season to February. Antarctica is peaceful, I fell in love with it and want to go back.
TW: Antarctica- what an adventure! Is there anywhere you haven’t been?
Jensen: I’ve been to every continent but Africa! I’d go by sail. Save the best for last.
TW: If you could cook anywhere, where would it be?
Jensen: Norway. I’m Norwegian and Irish. I’ve been to Ireland and it is beautiful. But I haven’t been to Norway yet and I’d love to go.
TW: What is the best way to eat sushi?
Jensen: With your hands! That’s how they do it in Japan.