by Chaiel Schaffel
There are a thousand noises that echo across the Vineyard, but none are more rare than the sound of silence. The neon buzz of Oak Bluffs and the high end clamor of Edgartown are indeed an experience, but sometimes what a person needs is a little peace and quiet.
On the island of Chappaquiddick, fondly nicknamed ‘Chappy’ by island residents, peace and quiet muffle the weary island traveler’s footsteps. Chappy is all about a break from the bustle of the bigger cities, and a return to nature. The trip to Chappy is anything but silent. The honking of a hundred car horns blends with the mechanized roar of the famous On Time ferries that bring cars and passengers to the island. The ferries, located in downtown Edgartown, are a sight to behold; three cars and a crowd of pedestrians push their way on to the tiny vessel, and are speedily transferred to the island and back. The tiny ferries make only a two minute trip across the fifty foot span water that gives Chappaquiddick its island status. World famous for being in the feature film Jaws, the small boats are a charming way to get to the island.
As the passengers disembark the ferry and travel inland, they may be overcome by a feeling of being enveloped by the trees. Traveling along Chappaquiddick Road and passing the Chappy Beach club, (also in Jaws) visitors will pass peaceful, grassy meadows dotted with trees and wide open farmland. A detour down any smaller road provides a wonderful sight; graceful foliage reaches over the road in a picturesque arch, delighting young and old alike.
If Chappaquiddick is an island of quiet, the Mytoi garden is the center of town. The street turns into a dusty dirt road a mile further down the way, and leads the visitor to the Mytoi Japanese Garden. The property, acquired by the Trustees of Reservations in 1976, is a surprising gem in the midst of beach houses and country roads. The garden is made up of numerous footpaths and walking bridges over a small pond. It is a perfect spot for meditation, or just to get a break from the constant rush of life. Hear the babbling of a clear brook as it meanders past and mingles with the sound of a chirping songbird, or the croak of a bullfrog. Exotic plants and trees rise up and bloom all around the visitor, adding to the tranquility of the garden. Across the road lie criss-crossing paths and wide-open, secluded views of a shimmering salt marsh, complete with benches to sit, think, and contemplate.
The final stop along the island tour is East Beach, and Cape Poge. To reach East Beach, visitors continue along the same dirt road, until they come to the expansive views of Pocha Pond at Dike Bridge. This is the same bridge that was focused on in the Edward M. Kennedy-Mary Jo Kopechne incident. The bridge is sadly remembered by island residents as a place of tragedy, but no evidence of an accident can been seen from the refurbished bridge.
From there, either on foot, or by car with a pass from the Trustees, the visitors continue to the sandy dunes of East beach and the wildlife reserve. Approved Four-Wheel Drive vehicles are even allowed to drive and park on sections of the beach. Cape Poge to the north is is the eastern-most point on Martha’s Vineyard, and home to the Cape Poge Light, which has been in existence in some form since 1801. The Trustees of the Reservations offer tours of the Light and surrounding wilderness, for any visitors that would like a little bit of history.
The beach itself is melodious, ringing with the sound of crashing waves and the slight shifting of a gentle breeze blowing through the dune grass. The coast of Cape Poge is home to a phenomenon that is most unlike the peace and quiet of Chappy. The beaches of Little Neck have recently been menaced by abandoned World War Two era bomb shells. Used as a bomb-training site during World War II, the bombs were left over, picked up by the current, and sometimes deposited on the shores of Little Neck. The shells could still contain working explosives, and there are warning signs posted throughout the area.
Heading back to the ferry after a long day of biking or driving is a treat, especially if visitors use the smaller dirt roads. There, the real spirit of Chappaquiddick can be found, among the overhanging trees and miles of quiet paths. If you are looking for peace, tranquility, and a day to get away from it all, go to Chappaquiddick, the Island of Rest.
