by: Anna Frost
If a waiter at Isola tells you about a special for the day – do not hesitate – order any and every dish offered.
At some restaurants, the specials seem to be a misnomer, but rather a way for the kitchen to rid themselves of an over-ordered or underselling item before it must be sacrificed to either staff meal or the trash bin. At Isola, however, the specials live up to the title and while the regular menu is spectacular, you won’t be sorry for taking the chance to deviate from it for one of the chef’s spontaneous creations.
Our waiter, a younger man who spoke excitedly about the food in short bursting sentences punctuated every two to three words, relayed to us the evening’s specials. Both appetizers, the first was a strawberry gazpacho – very refreshing, he said – and the second would be shitake mushrooms with melted parmesan cheese, local egg yolk and microgreens.
The latter caught my attention as owner Peter Sullo had told me about the local mushrooms he featured on Isola’s menu, which were grown on the island, and I decided that passing up the chance to see them shine would be an egregious mistake. My instincts were spot on. The mushroom caps had an ample amount of parmesan cheese baked on to the point of crispness, creating a nutty, almond-like flavor to complement the earthy, unctuous mushrooms that were seasoned with fresh herbs. The smooth slices of cured egg yolk contrasted the crunchy layer of cheese and provided a mild richness that accentuated the bold flavors on the plate. Even the microgreens and edible viola flowers held their own on the plate, which, as an adamant opponent of unnecessary garnish, I was glad to see.
The housemade ricotta appetizer from the regular menu equaled, even rivaled, the virtues of the mushrooms. Served warm with balsamic drizzled crostini, the cloud-like texture of this exceptional ricotta transcended all expectations, which were already quite high. After we ran out of bread to dip into the remaining bit of ricotta, my dining companion remarked that he would drink the rest if needed. However, thankfully, the waiter rescued our table manners and provided additional crostini.
The entrees followed the first act well: a perfectly cooked salmon filet over white bean ragout and crispy green onion reminded me why I love fish, but the pasta dish stole the show entirely. The housemade ricotta cavellini – gnocchi’s slightly sturdier cousin – with broccoli rabe and housemade sausage left me feeling a bit weak in the knees after the first bite. The chef’s finishing touch – an egg yolk placed on top for the diner to swirl into the pasta, creating a light and creamy sauce – made both the dish and my heart sing.
For dessert, we placed our trust in the specials yet again and were rewarded with olive oil sponge cake with a Sauvignon Blanc poached peach, accompanied by a whipped pistachio paste and chopped pistachios. The olive oil cake led a harmonious existence – neither too dry as sponge cakes are apt to be, nor too dense as olive oil cakes often are – before we happily demolished it. I must also give the chef my compliments on the nectar-like sauce drizzled over the plate, created by reducing the peach’s poaching liquid. It has been a while since an upscale restaurant served me a plated dessert that strived to highlight the ingredients as they are and succeeded so brilliantly. For this, Isola deserves a standing ovation.
The restaurant itself is like coming home to find that a wonderful dinner has been set up, just for you and your companions. Beautiful place settings on the exposed wood tables give the restaurant a refined feel, without a hint of stuffiness. The décor is understated, allowing diners to relax and focus on the food and their company. The waiters follow this theme in their all black uniforms and friendly, attentive service that does not overwhelm. The tables are set far enough apart so that your experience is not encroached upon by other party’s conversations; the sound proofing panels strategically placed on the ceiling also keep the noise down to a background hush, even when the restaurant is at its busiest.
The only trick is in entering Isola – when you come down Church Street from Edgartown’s Main Street the building looks like a house from the front, but do not be fooled by the front door, it is not the front of the restaurant. Instead, walk around the side and open the gate, which will lead you through a small patio and to the entrance of the restaurant, where you will be warmly greeted by the hostess, or even Sullo himself.
When Sullo opened Isola in late July last summer, he envisioned a quiet place for people seeking refuge from the loud, crowded bars and restaurants. Since then, he has accomplished this goal and beyond, making Isola not only a peaceful spot to enjoy a meal, but the place to find food that is both elegant and divine in its simplicity. While dinner for two will run at about $80-90, before drinks, the bill doesn’t feel excessive after the meal.
Though the Vineyard is certainly home to many upscale, fine dining restaurants, Isola sets itself apart with the passion and heart that is poured into the food by both Sullo and the chef. Isola, which shares a kitchen with the pizzeria and Healthy Habits market that are also run by Sullo and his relatives, features ingredients from the Vineyard and recipes passed down within Sullo’s family. When you dine at Isola, the food and service makes you feel that you are family too.
