by Diane Alter
Contrary to popular belief, the world’s best Italian restaurants are not all in Italy. In fact, perhaps one of the best is right here on Martha’s Vineyard in beautiful Edgartown.
Tucked amid lush greenery in the old Post Office Square off Main Street, Isola has a menu so authentically Italian, you may be speaking the language by the time you finish dinner. Still, the family owned and operated restaurant is also laid back in a way that makes one feel as though they are part of the tight knit group who have brought a bit of the old country to the island.
Forget everything you know about Italian restaurants. At Isola, you won’t find red and white checkered tablecloths, carafes of chianti, and a menu laden with red sauces–things that are more American-Italian than authentic Italian. Without question, Isola demonstrates what fine Italian dining can and should be.
The Sullo family, who dreamt of working together to create this experience, have achieved their goal. After opening Isola in 2014 and adjusting over the past couple of years (as families often do) Isola has become an iconic Italian restaurant that can only be described as “magnifico”.
Patriarch Peter Sullo wants Isola to portray a realistic Italian restaurant that incorporates local and fresh food. “That’s the Italian way,” the Sullos explained. “Use what you’ve got and use it wisely.” Some recipes, such as Isola’s unrivaled meatballs and tomato sauce, have been passed down through generations of Sullo’s. The recipes, like the Sullo family ties and bonds, stand the test of time.
Yet the Sullo family is not one to stand still. Constantly in motion, their attention at all times is on both the front and the back of the house. This hands-on approach is key to the restaurant’s success.
The dining room is warm and welcoming, with a minimalist and warm inviting look. Tables are glossy wood, the lighting is subdued and the walls are uncluttered in a way that seems more authentic than the typical images of Italy and artifacts that find their way onto so many Italian restaurant walls . Soft music plays overhead setting the mood for what is about to come. Even before eating a single bite you know Isola is a place where you will want to become a regular. The food will indeed have you coming back again and again.
The menu is ambitious and creative, making you question how someone could conjure up such imaginative dishes. That someone at Isola is Chef Jimmy Alvarado, a Culinary Institute of America at Hyde Park trained professional. Alvarado approaches food as equal parts scientist and artist. “I am always thinking of new ideas and playing with new elements, textures and tastes,” he explained.
Alvarado said he and the Sullo’s created the menu at Isola with families in mind. “we wanted to make sure that people could come in and share dishes and get a chance to taste everything. We have dishes that hit every price point.”
The menu changes often, allowing Chef Alvarado to take advantage of everything that is fresh and locally available. Still, the level of cooking, strict attention to detail and distinctive dishes never wavers.
Starters include Fresh Ceviche, Braised Spanish Octopus and a traditional but not ordinary Grilled Romaine Caesar
Salad. The Meat and Cheese Platter is a colorful and artistic display of Italian cured meats slices so thin you can see though them and bold, tangy cheeses. Seasonal accompanies, such as artisan fruits, add a savory balance.
Bar Snacks include Honeysuckle Oyster, Charred Farro and Heirloom Tomato Crostini. The Beet Carpaccio is a
stirring dish of thinly sliced beets, crumbled goat cheese, local honey, fennel pollen, shaved sea salt and truffle oil.
The Arancini, made of smoked bluefish, feta, roasted pepper coulis, pickled shallot conserva and charred onion dust is simply fantastic.
Pasta entrees include Spaghetti with Pesto Genovese, Truffle Mushroom Ravioli In Brodo and Linguine and Clams.
A hands down showstopper is the Butter Poached Lobster and Gnocchi, made with 1.5 lb. local lobster, lemon and pepper ricotta gnocchi, vodka sauce and shaved pecorino. This is one of those dishes that makes you stop and close your eyes to savor the unique and heavenly experience.
Isola caters to all preferences, offering a Farmer’s Plate of island vegetables, ½ Roasted Chicken Savoy, Cast Iron Rack of Lamb and a Ribeye. While not on the menu, Alvarado will gladly make Spaghetti and Meatballs for children. “We aim to please,” Alvarado said. “But we want kids to come in and experience new tastes. So, you won’t find chicken fingers and fries here.”
What you will find, that will please any youngster is Isola’s remarkable dessert menu, which also changes along with what is fresh and in season but always made fresh.
Offerings include Espresso Chip Cannoli, Tiramisu and a Trio of Isola’s house made gelatos and/or sorbets in flavors like Nutella Swirl, Blackberry, Pistachio and Fig with Salted Caramels. A bestseller are the Blueberry Jelly Donuts with a scoop of gelato.
First trips to restaurants are like first dates. They are all about first impressions. Isola is impressive and guarantees there will be a second date…and a third and a forth.
Isola is open for dinner only. For reservations call 774-549-9446.
MORE INFORMATION
19 Church St
Edgartown
(774) 549-9446
