Dinner with a View that Never Ends at Lighthouse Grill
by Ilana Gensler
Glimmers of light emit from dazzling chandeliers and reflect off of glass cases that house miniature sailboats. These displays are positioned as a divider separating the bar section from the dining area of Lighthouse Grill, and mimic the life-size reality which unfolds just beyond floor-to-ceiling windows. Between the breathtaking yachts that bob about in Edgartown Harbor, the crowds that gather in awe of the Edgartown Lighthouse, and the beautiful Chappaquiddick Island off in the distance, Lighthouse Grill truly embodies a summer décor.
This brilliant blend of dining in the midst of picturesque scenery traces back to 1891, when The Harbor View Hotel first originated. While Lighthouse Grill, located within the hotel, has fewer historical roots, it is certainly a fine addition to a prominent iconic spot on Martha’s Vineyard. Edgartown became recognizable for its financial status during the peak of the whaling industry in the 1840’s. At that time, the demand for hotels on the island was scarce, as it had not yet defined itself as a resort destination.
A railroad and The Harbor View Hotel were constructed through communal efforts amongst several citizens and the town, entirely transforming the Vineyard. For this reason, Lighthouse Grill signifies yet another amenity the Vineyard has been able to provide to its community over the course of innovative change. With its traces to historical evolution throughout the island, this restaurant and the hotel as a whole are held dear by many.
When Executive Chef Caleb Lara designed the menu for Lighthouse Grill, he was guided by the philosophies of the iconic Julia Child. “Those who don’t enjoy community and eating together, and cuisine are…well…flat boring,” Caleb recited, noting that he doesn’t have the quote memorized to perfection and apologizing for using an insulting adjective. Lighthouse Grill and the Vineyard as a whole rely upon that sense of community that Julia Child referenced to maintain that special something that keeps locals and visitors returning year after year. Perhaps it is Lara’s perception of cooking as an art form, along with his thirst for cooking knowledge that appeals to loyal visitors, for he has used his culinary background to develop a strong pursuit of perfection within the kitchen.
Whether he’s blending creamy mayonnaise and rich herbs amongst meaty lobster for a roll, or preparing bread for an appetizer, Chef Lara handles each masterpiece with immaculate care. “That bread better be toasted for exactly one minute and twenty seconds, ’cause that’s when you know…it’s perfectly golden brown, and when a guest bites into it, it’ll have a crispy exterior and a soft interior and if it’s anything less than that, it’s somewhat of a fail. This is what I do for a profession,” he said. While Caleb’s fervor for food preparation has no limits, his ability to achieve flawlessness does, and Chef Lara acknowledges this truth. “Systems are perfect, but people are not perfect, I make a lot of mistakes, hopefully I learn from them,” he continues. The kitchen for Chef Lara is a playground of possibility, and he looks forward to expanding his talent for many summers to come.
He explains that when a customer orders a meal, “they’re going to base their reaction off of their expectations for how [it] should taste, in other words, they have a reference point for it. Here, I make sure to create…. any meal… in a way that strives to match their reference point and hit home.” With a passion that fuels his commitment to getting that reference point just right, Lara created his menu in a way that tends to traditional summer requests, such as clam chowder or a lobster roll, while bearing mind of several dietary restrictions.
In order to offer a balanced blend of vegetarian alternatives and popular seasonal meals, the Lighthouse Grill team relies upon fresh island produce, meats and poultry from established Vineyard farms and line-caught seafood. Whether you have a hankering for “The Farmer’s Plate,” featuring seasonal vegetables amongst quinoa and wild rice or “Smoked Bluefish pâté” spread atop butter crackers, you’ll find your cravings satisfied at Lighthouse Grill.
As a circular tray is placed before you featuring a medley of Lighthouse Grill’s appetizers, a crowd gathers on the porch of The Harbor View Hotel to enjoy MVY-Radio’s weekly live acoustic selection. As the guests sip on a variety of fruity beverages they sway back and forth in aquamarine rocking chairs; their motion in synch with your fork diving into the Crab and Avocado Bruschetta. Twirling daintily shredded crabmeat around your fork you pile it atop a light brown sliver of perfectly toasted bread. As the crowd outside claps for the musicians, you feel tempted to clap for your taste buds, as they are in seafood heaven.
Craving some more crunch, you gently gather a miniature taco filled with sweet lobster salad that sits in a small sea of guacamole. The crowd disperses and your platter is taken away and replaced by filet mignon, which snuggles beside a warm serving of mashed potatoes and asparagus. To provide a contrast to the savory meat, three rosy red sweet peppers offer a chutney-like taste as their sugary juice collaborates with the tender steak. Cooked to perfection, the steak, while incredibly filling, is hard not to finish.
As the water of the Edgartown Harbor sparkles, so do your eyes when the waitress recommends the kitchen’s homemade chocolate chip cookies for dessert. The brief wait for the arrival of the delectable oozy cookies gives you the perfect opportunity to soak in the ambiance of the dining room. Between the warm candles adorning each table, the smiling faces that surround you and the nautical-themed art, Lighthouse Grill is, for lack of a better word, beautiful.
Dabbing the corners of your chocolate-stained lips, you find it hard to want to leave, but know that Lighthouse Grill awaits your next visit.
